This is how skin peels fix hyper pigmentation

The long-term treatments for dark spots, freckles and Melasma may differ, but chemical skin peels are ideal for removing existing hyper pigmentation.


Hyper pigmentation is extremely common in our sunny South Africa. And it only gets worse in summer. That’s why chemical skin peels are such a popular choice for achieving and maintaining your ideal tone of skin.

Now, we already know that most conventional sun-protection measures are less than ideal. Even sunscreen offering SPF 50 is only effective about 53% of the time. And, apart from the far longer lasting effects of premature ageing, the sun also causes visible patches of dark, hyperpigmented skin.


What is hyper pigmentation?

All skins contain pigment (colour); some just have a little more than others. But all of us want to have the same, even tone amount of colour in our face. Nobody likes dark spots, splotches or patches of skin, which is why science has long searched for the answers to what is one of the most difficult skin conditions to treat: hyper pigmentation.

If pigmentation is normal – basically the amount of the organic granule melanin contained in skin cells – then hyper pigmentation is an abnormal amount (too much) pigment in the skin. For various reasons, the skin or parts of it starts producing too much melanin, and you’re left with an uneven skin tone and dark spots on the face.

The result is hyper pigmentation: areas of skin with spots, splotches, freckles or patches that are darker the skin around it.


We distinguish between 3 main types of hyper pigmentation :

  • Sun-induced hyper pigmentation

Please note that the sun not only causes this condition by itself, but it will also exacerbate any other or existing hyper pigmentation. Basically, rule one when starting treatment on any kind of hyper pigmentation is: avoid the sun and wear lots and lots of sunscreen – all the time.

This is because the pigment in our skins, melanin, is actually a kind of natural built-in sunscreen. Melanin exists in skin to absorb UV rays, before they can do more serious damage like sunburn or irreparable DNA damage in skin. And the body’s natural response to sun exposure is to create more melanin to try and better protect itself.

But by doing so, the body often creates uneven amounts of melanin, and you’re left with dark spots on the face. Most types of hyper pigmentation you can think of, freckles, sun spots and age spots, are all caused by the sun.

See our article on sun protection for summer here.


  • Hormonal causes such as melasma (common during and after pregnancy)

This one is caused by hormone fluctuations, and almost 70% of pregnant women will experience it to some extent. But, while pregnancy is a big trigger for it, even birth control and the slightest change in oestrogen levels can cause melasma. Thyroid dysfunction is also a possible cause.

What happens is that melanocytes (the cells that produce melanin in the skin) are very sensitive to hormone levels in the body. If there’s a hormone imbalance, melanocytes tend to overproduce melanin. And the dark spots appear.

As mentioned before, the sun makes it worse. Your melasma could disappear with time, but overindulge just a little in the sun and it could come right back.


  • Post-inflammatory hyper pigmentation (to do with scarring and acne)

The only time “post-inflammatory hyper pigmentation” is funny, is when you convince your tipsy friend to try and say it fast several times at a party. PIH is discoloration of the skin after it’s been damaged: bad acne, burns, wounds that form scars, excessive skin irritation and some skin disorders. And it is most common or visible in darker skin types.

What happens here is that the injury causes inflammation, and many of the molecules the body naturally releases to the inflamed area have a tendency to “aggravate” melanocytes in the area. These start producing excess melanin and hyper pigmentation is the result. PIH in the top, epidermal layers of skin is sometimes less visible, but when the damage goes as deep as the dermis you could end up seeing a blue-grey skin discoloration.


Treating hyper pigmentation

Long-term treatments may differ for the underlying causes of the different types of hyper pigmentation. But all treatments will contain a more immediate element, for helping you get rid of any existing dark skin in the meantime.


Firstly – Protect

As we’ve already mentioned, sun protection is an absolutely crucial part of treating any kind of pigmentation. It’s a case of wearing sunscreen all the time, every day, to help with the repair and lightening, as well as to prevent recurring hyper pigmentation.

“You need to be diligent with your sunscreen use,” Dr Wagemaker advises. “Preferably wear a hat and stay out of direct sunlight as much as possible. Because this allows those pigment-forming cells to calm down and to work less aggressively.”

Sun protection alone could help lighten most hyper pigmentation within about four to eight weeks. But to fast track recovery, you’ll need to lighten the skin to restore normal skin tone.


In some instances like when hormones are to blame, or severe acne, oral therapies as prescribed by a doctor. This might be necessary to help manage the root causes, but treating the hyper pigmentation itself really comes down to lightening the skin.

This is where specialist treatments such as chemical peels or laser exfoliation come in.


Types of skin peels used for hyper pigmentation:

Your skincare therapist or doctor will advise you which peel is best for your particular case. But, in general, there are three main types of skin peels commonly used to treat hyper pigmentation.

  • Glycolic acid – Part of the fruit acid family, glycolic acid peels are alpha-hydroxy acid and one of the mildest and most popular types of skin peels available. Used to treat epidermal hyper pigmentation (on the surface layers of the skin), it’s an ideal lunchtime peel since there’s no downtime after the treatment.


  • Salicylic acid – Called beta-hydroxy acid, the alpha’s slightly harder working cousin. Salicylic acid peels also exfoliate (make skin shed) the top layers of skin like alpha peels, but they have an added antibacterial effect and helps clean and renew pores in the face.  Salicylic acid peels are used to treat all three types of hyper pigmentation. But, like alpha peels, only a qualified skincare therapist or doctor can do the treatment on you.
  • TCA – TCA is an acid commonly used in medicine to destroy or kill unwanted skin imperfections, such as warts. Thus, TCA peels (a variation specifically designed to be used as a peel on the face) are stronger and penetrate deeper than the other peels. It’s used to treat really deep-seated hyper pigmentation.


The most notable differences between this peel and others are that TCA peels will cause your skin to visibly shed (there might be a little downtime involved)

Because they exfoliate and promote new cell turnover, skin peels speed up the treatment of any kind of hyper pigmentation.

Read more on type of peels in our blog article of – What are chemical peels and how do they work?



How to maintain going forward

Once one’s skin is lightened and the pigmentation returns to normal, using sun protection remains very important. If not only to prevent future flare-ups of hyper pigmentation, then also to combat skin ageing. The two can be closely linked: the same sun that’s causing/worsening hyper pigmentation is also ageing your skin.

That’s why most therapists will recommend a third step to combating hyper pigmentation (and ageing at the same time): Ovelle D3. Made with Pycnogenol®, a patented natural plant extract made from the French Maritime Pine Tree and the most powerful oral antioxidant known to man, Ovelle D3 not only binds to and protects collagen and elastin fibres in skin, but also shuts down collagen breakdown.

Ovelle D3 also reduces pigmentation by 37% (especially hormonally-induced) from the inside. And on top of that, it contains Vitamin D3, which is vital for a healthy nervous system, bones and heart.


To find out more or book a treatment, contact:
079 351 1771




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  • MENTAL HEALTH effect on my skin.⠀
Studies have shown that your skin is influenced by your emotional and nervous states. ⠀
These studies have been compiled more than 70 years ago so the notion that there is an emotional linkage between brain-gut and skin is not something new, but still, we only treat the skin from the outside in!⠀
We should start seeing skincare as internal care. ⠀
Dry skin⠀
Rash-like symptoms⠀
Sensitive, reactive skin⠀
Poor healing rate⠀
Premature aged skin⠀
Rosacea flare-ups⠀
Cutaneous redness, edema, inflammation in the skin.⠀
All of the above mentioned conditions have direct links to your mental health conditions like depression, stress due to confinement, worry, stress due to crowding or academic stress, trauma, and even anxiety.⠀
According to a report by the American Psychological Association, long-term stress even weakens the responses of your immune system of which your skin is the largest immune organ.⠀
All these emotional states alters gastrointestinal tract function and changes cause alterations to the microbial flora, which in turn promotes local and systemic inflammation in the body/ skin.⠀
The inflammation is due to an overgrowth of bad microbes - SIBO - small intestine bacteria overgrowth.⠀
SIBO is strongly associated with depression and anxiety.⠀
Eradication of SIBO improves emotional symptoms and in return your skin health. ⠀
The remedies to cut off these stress-induced cycles are:⠀
*Oral administration of probiotics and beneficial bacteria can mediate both skin inflammation and mental health.⠀
*Omega 3 fatty acids:⠀
Not only does an omega-3 deficient diet increase SIBO, it has also been linked multiple times to an increased risk of depressive symptoms.⠀
So before you start freaking about your skin freaking out, have a look at your MENTAL health and GUT health.
  • Autoimmune diseases and skincare⠀
Protection is vital. Not only due to the fact of using chronic medication (topically or systemically) daily but because these disorders affect your skin health. ⠀
The autoimmune disease causes a person's immune system to attack the body's own tissues and organs. The skin being its largest, it is commonly affected by certain autoimmune disorders.⠀
The main effect on the skin:⠀
*Delayed wound healing ability⠀
*Impaired barrier function⠀
*Chronic inflammation⠀
Few common autoimmune  diseases:⠀
*Rheumatoid arthritis⠀
*Lichen Planus⠀
*Hashimoto disease⠀
Each autoimmune disease affects the skin in different and unique negative ways so for the best protective protocol and plan - seek the advice and consult of a skincare expert to guide you.⠀
The most common negative effect in all autoimmune diseases relating to skin health is barrier impairment. ⠀
Here are my top 10 products - that I love for barrier restoration and repairment:⠀
1. Optoderm Micellar Cleanser⠀
2. Lamelle Serra Restore⠀
3. Mesoestetics Hydra Milk Cleanser⠀
4. Mesoestetics HA Densimatrix⠀
5. La Roche Posay Toleriane Ultra Cream 0%⠀
6. La Roche Posay Toleriane Demo Cleanser⠀
7. Optoderm Green Tea Serum⠀
8. Heliocare Pediatric SPF 50⠀
9. Lamelle Serra Soothing⠀
10. Mesoestetic Anti-Stress Face Mask⠀
A skin treatment that would cause injury or damage to your skin might not be the right approach when treating your skin. So rather consult with an expert before booking a clinical skin treatment.
  • Nothing is just skin deep.⠀
Did you know that your body immunity affects your skin immunity? ⠀
The reason you are starting to suffering from breakouts, dryness, swelling, itchy, redness, hypersensitive skin or a slow wound healing rate might be because your body and skin immunity is compromised. ⠀
The skin is our body’s largest organ - our immune organ. It makes up 16% of your body weight. Your skin acts as your body’s first point of contact with foreign pathogens, viruses, and bacteria which explains why it’s such a focal point for your immune system. ⠀
There are an estimated 20 billion T cells in human skin, far greater than the number of T cells in the blood. Suggesting that immune defense in the skin is of a high priority. There is constant communication from the cells of your skin to the rest of your body and visa versa. ⠀
When your immune system is in prime condition, this relationship works well and even if antigens do breach your skin, your immune system is equipped to deal with them.⠀
When your body’s immune system becomes weakened or impaired it can sometimes spell disaster for your skin, creating a cascade effect in your skin. Unfortunately, certain medical diseases/ conditions will have chronic immune barrier issues -  I will be covering this in my next post.⠀
You might feel tired all the time or have a slow healing rate, or have some tummy ailments and not even consider that those are results of a poor weakened immune system. Your body is constantly fighting battles for you but you will start to see it in your skin.⠀
It is important to approach skincare in a holistic manner. Focusing on nutrition, topical treatments, and lifestyle advice to achieve your optimal skin health. That is why I think we should look at skincare internally and externally.⠀
If the above warning signs are sound familiar, you need to give your immune system some extra attention.⠀
Swipe left to see how to boost your immune system this winter.
  • Keep your skin alive at home.

As we all might feel a bit of doom and gloom at the moment our skin will reflect our emotional well being. So it is time for a pick me upper because if we look good we feel good.

I have spoken about skincare devices recently and think it is a great time to start introducing homecare skin routine even if you are a newbie or regular skincare patient - to maintain and enhance your in-clinic or home results.

I have designed 3 types of homecare kits so you can keep your skin alive at home

It is great for patients *not being able to come into a clinic for there regular treatments to keep their skincare alive and maintaining results home.
*who budgets are tight and you never want to move backward always moving forward with skin progression. Great for patients living far away from the clinic.
*Great for moms with busy schedules at the moment juggling schoolwork and have time for yourself. Do it at home kit will take you through these times. *Glow Kit - Glowing natural skin is the best foundation. This kit is designed for sensitive dehydrated skins that need a pick me upper. Indicated for all skin types. I would recommend starting with this kit and stepping up with a refill of the rejuvenate kit. *Rejuvenate Kit - great home care program that focuses on healthy aging. Aging starts even before you visibly start seeing fine lines and wrinkles. So nip it in the butt and start introducing great active ingredients into your skin. This is a great program to prepare your skin for in-clinic Collagen induction therapy. *Focus kit - great for smaller areas around the mouth or eye. Some of us have a focused concern we want to correct. This is a great start-off kit to prepare and improve your eye or mouth area.

Skincare kits will last you 4 week and after 4 weeks you can refill your kits as you rollers would last you 3-4 months. 
Contra indications for home rollers
*pustular inflammation acne
*any inflammatory skin condition
*open scars or wounds
*certain chronic medication
*autoimmune illness 
If you are unsure send me an email or WhatsApp and I can guide you.

For orders please email me or send me a Whatsapp.
  • 2020 is turning out to be the year of new beginnings and new leaves 
In the rush to have everything return back to normal, I think we need to take time to consider which parts of normal are worth rushing back to.

I am a conservationist and have personally found this lockdown time as a time of refocusing and re prioritising what is truly important to me and what can be important to my patients. *Quality vs quantity
*Necessity vs luxury
*Consistency vs seeking quick solutions
*Skin health vs beautifying *quality vs expensive 
This all applies to your skin and life in general. Food for thoughts.
  • DF home skincare devices⠀
The role of this device is to enhance the penetration of your active ingredients at home. ⠀
So how does it work:⠀
These devices make use of sound waves and electric currents to drive products deeper into the skin.⠀
When low and high ultrasound waves travel through a fluid, they create tiny bubbles that move chaotically. Once the bubbles reach a certain size, they become unstable and implode. Surrounding fluid rushes into the empty space, generating high-speed "microjets" of fluid that create microscopic abrasions on the skin.⠀
Electrical current - when applied to the skin incorrect frequency and time the skin resistance changes allowing products to be absorbed through it otherwise impermeable membrane.⠀
In South Africa, I can just think of one brand worth mentioning - the Environ Electro-Sonic DF Mobile Device.⠀
It makes use of sonophoresis and iontophoresis ⠀
please take note that these devices will not create wounding or inflammation in the skin⠀
By using devices like the DF or home roller this adds to the value of your homecare active products that you use at home, adds to preparing your skin for in-clinic treatment you will need to during winter months, and maintain your skin health during the months you can not see your therapist.⠀
This machine can be used daily all depends on the time you have or your skin tolerance. How to use it:⠀
*Apply the serum or product indicated by the manufacturer to clean the skin and switch on the device. ⠀
*Once the beeping sound starts you would keep it stagnant in that area you would like to treat.⠀
*Once you hear the next beep move it to another area- You will feel a slight tingling sensation this is just the current following underneath the node. ⠀
*After use switch off the device and store away safely.⠀
*Apply active products or serums.⠀ So now the question is "Can I stop having in-clinic treatments?" -NO. It’s not recommended as the machines we use in the clinic are going to provide your skin with even more dramatic transformation results, where your homecare devices can only aid in penetration of active ingredient.
  • Home care devices and Serums - What should I use!⠀
Here is some guidance on what products can be used with your devices.  A relevant and true saying is: "Just because it can be done does not mean it should be done."⠀
This is what comes to my mind when guiding patients in selecting the correct serum to use for their skincare devices. Especially devices aiding in product penetration.⠀
Only sterile active ingredients should be used with your home penetrating devices. These devices should only allow products to penetrate into our epidermis and not into the deeper layers of our skin. That is why we have in-clinic devices and home devices. ⠀
Take note that you might or will cause a skin reaction. This will cause an unwanted inflammatory response in your skin and even damage structural elements within your skin. It is normal for the skin to react in this manner as you are allowing an ingredient to penetrate deeper into the skin. This can do more harm than good. So take true caution when selecting active serums or active products to use with your home devices.⠀
Antioxidants and Peptides are great active ingredients that work wonderfully with a home roller or DF device. Examples are:⠀
*Mesoestetic Bioflash for cellular regeneration.⠀
*Mesoestetic Hydrotaurin for great antioxidant.⠀
*Mesoestetic Organic silicon 1% for anti-aging and skin regeneration.⠀
*Skin Ceuticals CE Furelic, great antioxidant post rolling application.⠀
*Mesoestetic energy c complex post rolling application.⠀
*Mesoestetic proteoglycans ampoules.⠀
*Mesoestetic anti-aging flash*Peptides.⠀
*Mesoestetic Densimatrix.⠀
*Skin Ceuticals Hydrating B5.⠀
*Lamelle HA plus.⠀
*Lamelle GF serum.⠀
*Skin Ceuticals HA Intensifier.⠀
*Endocare Tensage.⠀
Never use an alpha hydroxy acid or unsterile solution.⠀
I love alternating serums as well as incorporating retinol or alpha hydroxy acid into your skincare routine when doing home care devices. It stimulates cell turnover which works great with the benefits of the transdermal solutions.⠀
You should see how your skin tolerates home devices with active products and this will be your guide as per how many timers per week you should use
  • Micro-current Therapy

It’s being hailed the “natural facelift” and non-toxic Botox alternative which celebrities are raving about. Here are some facts you might want to know before investing in home care micro-current device.

Micro-current therapy has been used for decades to treat people with Bell’s Palsy. The technology’s toning effect caught the attention of the cosmetic field for its ability to lift the muscles in the face and tighten sagging skin, creating a more youthful appearance.

It sends low-level electrical currents into your skin that is nearly identical to the body’s own natural electrical frequencies. This adds more electrons to your system, helping you make energy more quickly and stimulating at a cellular level. It also boosts your body’s absorption of amino acids, helping the formation of collagen. This results in strengthen and plump the skin and relax underlying muscles to prevent the skin from being folded on itself.  This microcurrent therapy on the face is extremely weak, so you typically won’t feel a thing. 
The benefits:
*Enhances skin cell activity cells and helps increase collagen production, resulting in more toned and less wrinkled skin. * I personally think there's should be more data to prove how and if this device is really effective and you need multiple treatments even in-clinic to see results and maintain results.

In-Clinic VS Home devices:
Home care devices are not nearly as effective as in-clinic micro-current devices but with regular use, it will probably make some difference.

The best candidates are people with mild skin laxity (or sagging), because the skin is still relatively healthy. My best advice would be to use it in conjunction with your in-clinic treatments. Pregnant clients or clients with pacemakers should avoid it.

NuFACE is the most popular at-home device on the market. 
How it works:
Cleanse your skin and then apply a thin layer of conductive gel over the area you want to treat and roll the face for 5 min. 
You need to this everyday for 60 days before seeing results and even then don't expect miracles. It can be a pretty relaxing experience and you shouldn’t experience any discomfort.