No Comments

Post a Comment


  • The Mask Effect.⠀
Here are a few changes you can make to your skincare routine to help your skin adapt:⠀
*Switch to a more gentle hydrating cleansing routine during these winter months - This applies to all skin types even oily skin types. ⠀
*if your skin is feeling irritated by wearing the mask for long periods, it may be worthwhile cutting back on your active ingredients, for instance, your retinol at night time.⠀
*Hydration through Humectants aka Hyaluronic acid. This is a great water-binding molecule attacking water from the external environments and from the dermis. Replenishing hydration inside the skin is vital. Other great ingredients for hydration are Glucanolactone and Poly Hydroxy Acids.⠀
*Have a look at your moisturizer in winter – this is important that your skin feels hydrated as you do not want to risk disrupting your skin barrier function. You could change to a more hydrating, lipid-rich moisturizer to counteract the dryness.⠀
*Barrier occlusive - look into layering an additional hydrating moisture which does not contain any active ingredients, but is effective in reducing and preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Occlusives reduce TEWL by creating a hydrophobic barrier over the skin. Occlusives include Petrolatum, Panthanol, Mineral oil, Beeswax, and Silicone. ⠀
*Mask Breaks - make sure you take regular safe mask breaks during your working days in a secure safe environment.⠀
*Increase EFA intake - up your dosage to 4000mg daily. It is important to look at the label of your product and the amount of EPA. Preferably 800-1000mg per capsule.⠀
*When choosing mask - The best material for homemade face masks may be a combination of two fabrics. One layer of a tightly woven cotton sheet combined with two layers of polyester-spandex chiffon this filtered out the most aerosol particles (80–99%, depending on particle size), with performance close to that of an N95 mask material. Chiffon with natural silk or flannel, or simply using a cotton quilt with cotton-polyester batting, produced similar results, but the emphasis is placed on the importance of a properly fitted mask.⠀
Stay safe and skin healthy this winter.
  • UNMASKING Winter Skincare
Winter skin is already hard and this winter we will also have to cope with the "mask " factor. Winter normally contributes to the dry, irritated, dehydrated barrier impaired skin but this year we are even more at risk for skin to go through flare-ups and reactions.⠀
The wearing of a mask is mandatory now and it might just become the new norm, either way, it will affect all of us. Irrelative of skin type or phototype.⠀
The potential skin issues caused by wearing masks:⠀
*Lower temperature and changes in humidity levels cause the skin to become more dehydrated, drier, and sensitive during winter months.⠀
*Facial mask adds friction to the skin this could disrupt the skin’s natural epidermal barrier function. This can lead to irritation, erosions, and raw areas on the skin- like the face, nose, and ears. This constants friction on the skin surface will cause or aggravate skin reactions or rashes. ⠀
*If you are prone to skin sensitivity, eczema, perioral dermatitis, rosacea flair-ups or skin reaction the wearing of the mask leads to an increase in temperature and humidity in the mask area - that might cause a flare-up. ⠀
*Constant touching of the facial area where previously you would have not.⠀
*Hypoxia due to mask occlusion.⠀
*Various chemicals in the cloth mask or surgical mask such as formaldehyde can cause irritant or contact dermatitis on your face.⠀
*Raw sensitive skin might form Hyper pigmentation - PIH in the area of distress.⠀
So the best way to prepare and prevent skin reactions from occurring is to make sure you add:⠀
*Hydration through Humectants⠀
*Moisture through lipid-rich Emollients⠀
*Barrier support⠀
*Barrier occlusives
In my next post, I will share my tips on ingredients you should incorporate into your winter skincare plan and small lifestyle changes you can make to help you thought this time.
  • Are you protecting your children’s skin as much as you should?

Our children are exposed to the same external elements as we are from the day, they are born so we need to look after their skin the same way we look after our own. We can nip a lot of skin disorders in the butt while they are still young: Congestions, Acne, Sensitivity, Eczema/ atopic dermatitis, Pigmentation, and Ageing

Your optimal skin years are from the day you are born until 10 years of age. 2/3 of our skin damage is done before the age of 30 and the rest of the 1/3 we just add on in our life. Your skin is like odometer clocking up mileage – your skin has memory. You don’t see the damage now but you will later on in life.

You should protect them from:
*UV radiation -Sunlight.
*Visible light -With everything being our children are exposure to online blue visible light and this light has proven to contribute to skin disorder.
*Municipality Water -It disturbs you skin barrier function and pH leading to a lot of skin disorders.
*Incorrect products and ingredients - Stripping the pH of the skin causing long term effect to the barrier function, pigmentation, congestion etc.

How can you do this:
*An excellent cleanser that should be pH balanced and non-irritating to the skin or stripping the microbiome. It is great idea to use it over their entire bodies, use it as a body wash seeing as they are prone to eczema and skin irritations. As they get older it is good to get them into a routine to wash their skin every evening.

Recommended products until puberty (age of 10):
*Mustella 2 in 1 cleansing gel
*Lamelle Serra Cleansing gel
*Sunscreens -In babies up to 3 months of age, I would not recommend using sunscreens, but rather to avoid the sun completely and to wear the appropriate clothing. From 6 months of age. These products will generally have fewer ingredients and therefore carry a reduced risk of irritation and allergy to the skin. Manufacturers will often use fewer chemical filters and rather favor mineral or physical filters which reflect ultraviolet light. Heliocare Pediatrics daily use on their entire body - arms, face.

Image Credit: Gustavo Fring via Pexels
Posted using @plannthat
  • Smog, Pollution, and Ground-level Ozone pollution. 
We are aware of stratospheric ozone.

The good ozone occurs naturally in the earth’s upper atmosphere and protects us from the sun’s harmful UV radiation. It cuts out the shorter wavelengths like UVC completely but does allow UVB and UVA to come through.

Then we get ground level or tropospheric ozone which is formed by the interaction of sunlight, particularly with hydrocarbons and nitrogen oxides which are typically emitted by motor vehicles, coal-fired power stations, factories, smog and veld fires.

Ground-level ozone damages the skin causing what is called oxidative stress. This can cause the depletion of natural antioxidants in the skin.  The role of antioxidants is to protect the skin against free radical damage caused by environmental aggressors.

Ozone pollution causes an inflammatory cascade which causes premature skin aging in the form of fine lines and wrinkles, excessive oiliness, rough texture, and increased sensitivity. A recent study has shown that patients living in heavily polluted cities in Asia have a greater chance of developing sun freckles on their faces.😱 Keep in mind that sunscreens can't protect you against  IR-A radiation or ozone pollution. 
Both can be as damaging as UV.

So now we know of UVB, UVB, Pollution, Visible light, and infrared radiation does to our skin health, what can we do to protect our self against all these external factors we are constantly exposed to in our daily skin lives? 
If you want the very best protection for your skin you will need a: *Topical sunscreen that has a UVB, UVA, and Visible light blockers. *Antioxidants for Infrared and pollution protection, and ideally, it should also contain DNA repair enzymes. 
A good antioxidant should have the following factors: *High concentration (must be over 8% to be effective). *The correct form of Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid)
Low pH (under 3.5) must be in a water-based solution to have a low pH. 
In addition, one can take oral protection such as Heliocare Fernblock®️ capsules or Lamelle Ovelle D3 both of which offer additional protection.
Please note: oral capsules alone will not provide enough protection.
  • Get the full spectrum protection.
We now know how important it is to protect your skin from visible light radiation but it might just be a good time to recap your mind on all radiation light out there and how you can protect your skin.⠀ ⠀
There are many external factors that are harmful to the skin. The most well-known are UVB and UVA radiation. Other factors include ground-level ozone, air pollution, and smoke. (Will cover this in my next post)⠀
Solar radiation is a wide spectrum of electromagnetic radiation issued by the sun. This radiation is emitted by the sun continuously come rain or sunshine. Within this spectrum, there are 4 main radiation types that each affect the skin differently:⠀
(See next slide)⠀
UVB Radiation:⠀
Short wavelengths that only reach the superficial layer of the skin (epidermis).⠀
Responsible for sunburn which causes redness and inflammation (erythema).⠀
Has carcinogenic potential due to altered DNA in the cells (increases the risk of cutaneous cancer).⠀
Beneficial in producing Vitamin D in the skin.⠀
UVA Radiation:⠀
Longer wavelengths that reach into the deeper layers of the skin (dermis).⠀
It causes DNA damage (which contributes directly to the development of skin cancer).⠀
Chronic exposure causes dermal matrix damage and solar elastosis (photo-aging).⠀
Visible Light:⠀
Visible light is any kind of light visible to the human eye.⠀
Includes indoor lighting, TVs, computers, tablet, and cellphone screens. High energy visible light (HEVL) falls within this spectrum. Impairs the lipid barrier of the skin.⠀
Infrared Radiation:⠀
Longer wavelengths that penetrate deeper than UVB and UVA. Mainly affects collagen fibers (contributing to the appearance of wrinkles and cutaneous sagging). It causes skin darkening in darker skin types. Generated by heat-emitting devices like hairdryers, heaters, ovens, saunas, hot water bottles, etc. Depletes the skin’s natural antioxidants and causes accelerated ageing. Normal UV filters do not protect against Infrared radiation (this is where the antioxidants come in)⠀
How to look after your skin in the full spectrum will be covered in my next post.⠀
Image Credit: Daria Shevtsova via Pe
  • So how to protect yourself from visible light?

After my last post you will understand what visible light does and how it affects our skin. Here is how you can prevent and protect your skin.

Sunscreens are the answer but not just any sunscreen. Your sunscreen needs to protect you from HEVL (high energy visible light). There is nothing wrong with sunscreen that says UVA and UVB protection but you are not getting the “360” full protection you need.

So what do you look for when buying a sunscreen: *High factor, broad-spectrum sunscreen that covers UVB and UVA, but more importantly use a sunscreen that incorporates a Visible light blocker – this would include optically opaque filters such as non-micronized forms of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and iron oxide. These compounds scatter and reflect Visible light. It is especially important to use a VL blocker if you have darker skin and are prone to pigmentation. *HEVL - this should be listed on the product. *Factor 50 - we live in Africa and are exposed to more visible light now during lockdown😉 *Broad-spectrum UVA & UVB protection. *Anti Oxidants. *P++++. *IR-A. *Critical wavelength reading.

So now that you know what to look for in products, here is some lifestyle advice: *Wear your 360 protection daily - I recommended making you sunscreen your day cream. There are so many different types that find one that suits your skin type and is pleasing to use. I love it when I do research on a product and find multiple ingredients in it that protect your skin. It saves your skin and money. *Wear it indoors and outdoors - you are more at risk indoors that you might think. *Only wash you sunscreen aka day cream off when you close your tablet, computer, or phone for the evening before you go to bed. A lot of clients do their nighttime routine and go and work again - and don't understand why they are aging quicker or have developed pigmentation. You need to protect your skin from visible light morning and evening - especially while you sit in front of your screens.
  • How VISIBLE LIGHT is impacting our skin during lockdown / part 2.⠀
Where formerly we averaged nearly 11 hours on the computer or watching TV, the figures have climbed now that we are at home all day. Kids doing home school on computers, TV viewing, and internet use are at record levels and while experts have weighed in with warnings on eye health and mental exhaustions, what about looking after our skin?⠀
Visible light aka artificial blue light emitted by digital devices like computers, smartphones, TV set, and tablets penetrate to the deepest levels of the skin, causing skin cell damage and speeding up photoaging.⠀
The only way to combat these harmful effects is to tackle radiations by wearing broad-spectrum sunscreens that cover the entire spectrum of radiation being emitted UVA, UVB, visible light, and infrared radiation every day with a topical anti-oxidant.⠀
The main criteria when considering the best antioxidant is whether the product is able to penetrate into the skin so that there is a measured action with visible benefits. When a product has been correctly formulated and undergone clinical trials, you can be sure that they meet these criteria. ⠀
But our screens aren’t the only enemy of our skin while we are at home. We also need to protect our skin when working from home or even reading close to a window. Ultraviolet radiation type A can penetrate through glass. UVA along with visible light is not only emitted sun but by light bulbs too. ⠀
Let us cover all the spectrum of light factors that affect our skin health during the lockdown. Read more in my next post.
  • How VISIBLE LIGHT impacts us during lockdown/ part 1:

It is common to associate the use of sunscreen with being outdoors. However, while social isolation is keeping us at home, we should still protect our skin seeing as we are spending more time in front of our computers, tv screen and cell phones – exposing us to indoor visible light.

So what is visible light?

Visible light (400-700nm) makes up 40% of solar radiation that reaches the surface of the earth. It is damaging to the skin as It is not only able to penetrate the outer layer of the skin, the epidermis but also the deeper layer of the skin, the dermis.

In short, it has a chronic effect on the skin. Here a complex cascade of reactions occurs deep within the skin inducing a pro-inflammatory response and oxidative damage to the skin cells which can trigger solar urticaria, actinic dermatitis, phototoxic and photo-allergic reactions in the skin. Cause skin cell damage and speeding up photo-ageing.

Indoors, visible light aka artificial blue light is light that is visible to the human eye and this includes indoor lighting, televisions, tablets such as iPads, computer screens, as well as smartphones.

If your skin is at risk of developing pigmentation and you are serious about your skin health, you should consider how much time you spend exposed in your daily life to indoor and outdoor visible light.